The ghetto guide to printing light colours on dark fabrics

You have a professional quality stencil made. Your screen is ready to print. In this guide I will explain which ink to use on a low budget so that you are producing a quality product that will sell well.

Know your printing inks

There are two common types of printing ink; Water Based & Plastisol

Water Based Inks

Water based inks are easy to use; they air-dry on the garment and can be heat-set with a clothes hand-iron.

The upside: Air-drying, easy to heat-set with three minutes at 180°C with clothes hand-iron with the cotton setting. Bright colour /coverage

The down side: There really isn’t one.

Plastisol Inks

Currently the industry standard Plastisol ink gives bright colour and coverage. If you go into your local chain store you will see row after row of Plastisol printed T-shirts. They are easy to spot; ink sits on top of the fabric, and feels kind of like rubbery plastic.

The upside: Bright colour/coverage on dark-coloured garments.

The downside: Plastisol inks do not air dry at all and are required reach a temperature of 320°C to 330°C. To be honest they really need to be baked in an oven to heat-set.

The print garment industry uses both Plastisol and water based ink depending on the item’s material.

Contact your local screen print supplier for ink stock:
If you are in New Zealand use CCG Industries: Screen printing.
If you are in USA use Catspit Productions, LLC.

Choosing the right ink for the ghetto printer

When you’re starting out on a low budget you need an ink you can rely on to deliver quality. Opaque water based heat-set inks are the way to go if you are starting out on a budget, trust me on this. I recommend you use an OPAQUE water-based printing paste suitable for both light and dark fabric to print your T's upon. You can also buy PEARL PASTE, which is an opaque print paste that with the addition of concentrated dyes can be mixed to make any colour. This method prints bright, opaque colours on dark fabric. This OPAQUE print paste differs from normal water-based textile ink as it is thicker, and gives better coverage and brighter colours upon dark fabrics.

Opaque White ink and Opaque Pearl paste

OPAQUE print paste differs from normal water-based textile ink as it is thicker, and gives better coverage and brighter colours upon dark fabrics.

When black is the only option

The acid test for printing a light colour on dark fabric is printing white on black. All the T-shirts I print on are black and I print a lot of white on black. This method is sound. When you go to heat-set the garment make sure the ink is dry first (leave to air dry), then heat-set for 3 minutes at 180°C with a clothes hand-iron. You probably have one lying around but if not get one cheaply.

A final word on Plastisol ink

Don’t try to heat set Plastisol without the proper equipment. Some people try to use their own garage methods to heat-set Plastisol ink such as using heat-guns designed for paint stripping. I don’t recommend this as it can burn the garment or fail to heat-set parts of the ink properly, but if you are dead-set on using Plastisol ink then your best option is to buy a Flash Cure unit for around $750 -$1000. A flash cure unit will enable you to heat-set the Plastisol ink properly. I'm not saying Plastisol is bad or not to use it so if you can afford to get the proper equipment to heat-set it then go there but I don’t try to heat set Plastisol ink without the proper gear as it will likely lead to a product you can’t sell.

I am using opaque water based inks to print and it is totally commercially viable for the start-up screen printer, people are buying my T's and I receive consistent and positive feedback. You can do it to.

Where to buy T-shirts

If you’re going to sell T-shirts you will need to buy blank T-shirt stock. Buying blank T-shirts is really easy and you can find T-shirt wholesalers online or at your local Walmart, The Warehouse, or other chain-stores. In the book Threads not Dead, Jeff Finley talks about sourcing T-shirt stock in detail and he lays out what products the industry uses and where to locate them as well as advice on ordering quantities and sizes and loads of other essential information that if you’re going to get into the rag-trade I recommend as essential reading.

Now you’re ready to start selling T-shirts.

You have your screen ready, you have your ink sorted. You know how to heat-set it so that your image will be a permanent print on your T-shirts and you you’re your blank T-shirts ready to print. Now it’s time to start selling.

Bringing your T-shirts to market.

One of the quickest and easiest ways to bring your T-shirts to market is via auction websites. Ebay or Tradme are easy to operate for minimal cost. Running online auctions is a breeze. Maybe you’re not ready to launch your own brand, or can’t afford the cost of a website, then auction sites are the way to go. Even if you want to test a design out on the market to see how it performs auction sites are great.

Here are a few tips to getting good results from auction sites.

• Use great photo's or mock-up templates to create striking images that sell your T-shirts. If you have access to a good camera, and by that I mean a DSLR, models and lighting then you can’t go wrong with great photographs. If like me you don't have access to good photographic equipment then Gomedia offer T-shirt mock up templates that are really excellent. They enable you to present your T-shirt in the best possible way with clear, sharp images. The templates are easy to use in Photoshop and are flexible. IF you don't have Photoshop then Gomedia also have the website mockupeverything.com which enables you to make T-shirt mock ups directly on the website without Photoshop. Again, this is an excellent way to make T-shirt images and I encourage you to make use of it. These images will sell your T-shirts

• Once you have your T-shirt image make use of it by adding it to your auction and have it displayed as a gallery item. This will display a thumbnail image when people are browsing listings (recommended). Again, the images will sell your T-shirts.

• Set your reserve price. Your reserve price should cover your expenses and make you a profit. It should be at least 100% more than the cost of the T-shirt. I'm not going to tell you what price to set, count your costs and look at the market to see what other people are selling similar T-shirts for. Just make sure you cover your costs and are making a profit when you set your reserve.

• Set a buy now price. This should be more then reserve. Think about what you would like to be selling your shirts for. If the reserve covers your costs and make a profit, then a buy now price is about making more profit and is aimed at the impulse buyer. Make sure your buy now price is higher than the reserve price but not out of reach. If multiple people are in a bidding war for your T-shirt they might choose the buy now price rather than fight it out to win the auction and some people will use the buy now option to process their purchase faster rather than waiting for the auction is set to run its course.

• Use a concise title to inform your audience of exactly what your T-shirt is. The description should have more detail about your T-shirt.

Start your auction and get selling.
Take it easy,

paintedbrain
Facebook, Behance, Email: paintedbrain@gmail.com

Ghetto Screen printing - A guide to getting started in screen printing on a low budget.

When I first decided I wanted to to get into screen printing a few months ago I really had no idea
what was involved. I am an artist and I knew that I wanted to print my own designs but that was about it, so when I first started to look around for screens I went to my local art supply store and they were able to provide me with my first silk screen and a squeegee for a fair price, however, I recommend that you find a screen print wholesaler and deal with them directly. This way you will save yourself a whole lot of cash as well as tapping into the supply line for everything you will need.
I recommend using the following suppliers:

If you are in New Zealand use CCG Industries: Screen printing.

If you are in USA use Catspit Productions, LLC.

You can screen print without a carousel.

With the average cost of a screen printing carousel being between $1500 - $2500 I could not afford one to start out. Instead, get a friend to help hold the screen firmly in place while you use the squeegee to apply the ink to the screen then have them lift it away, it really is that easy. Just make sure the screen does not move while you're printing. I use a flat piece of wood slipped inside the shirt to keep it flat and prevent ink from bleeding through to the black layer. A day may come when you are printing the volume to afford a carousel, but to begin with you can get by without one and save a whole bunch of money. As I am writing this I am running my entire operation off 1 trestle table with the help of a friend to hold the screen when I print, that's it.

Have a friend to help hold the screen firmly in place while you print. Push ink forward with squeegee , drag back.

How to use photo emulsion on the cheap.

Photo emulsion is easy to use in the right conditions. To use your artwork on your screen as a stencil you will first need to coat the screen with a photo emulsion in total darkness, then dry it in total darkness until the emulsion sets, then finally you can place your artwork transparency onto the screen and expose it to light to make a stencil from your artwork.

Buy a darkroom safe light

The best way to work with the photo emulsion is in safe light conditions. A darkroom safe light lets you work with the photo emulsion in safe light conditions so that you can see what you’re doing when mixing the emulsion and coating the screen without exposing it to UV light (sunlight, light from light bulbs). Jump on Trademe or Ebay and find a Kodak darkroom safe light (or equivalent). With everything photographic moving to digital these days safe lights are no longer in demand and you should be able to buy one for around $20 (I did).

Darkroom safe light  & scoop coater

Buy some photo emulsion and a scoop coater

You can buy this directly from your screen print supplier.

If you are in New Zealand use CCG Industries: Screen printing.

If you are in USA use Catspit Productions, LLC.

Coating the Screen

Turn off all other lights; plug in your safe light. You are now working in safe light conditions. Mix your photo emulsion as specified by the manufacturer. Poor the mixed emulsion into your scoop coater and use it to coat the underside of the screen.

Coating the Screen. Tilt screen back slightly and slide up the screen. Tilt back when at top.  Pull away.

Drying the screen

Now the screen needs to be left to dry face down in a dark place, where no light can reach it. Photo emulsion takes a while to dry so plan for safe light conditions to dry it for a few days away form daylight (or any other UV light). For months I used a large suitcase to store the screen in while it dried. I put some blocks in each end of the case to hold the screen away from the bottom and placed the screen inside face down, zipped up, and then covered the suitcase with a blanket to ensure no light entered and waited until it dried. In winter without heat applied this can take a week to dry properly. In summer it will dry much faster. If you can apply a low heat source (fan heater for example) it will dry much faster. Only check on the screen under safe light conditions and only expose your artwork when the photo emulsion is completely dry, it hardens. I recently got a new laptop to use with Photoshop, and have modified the cardboard box the laptop came in to use as a light safe box for drying photo emulsion coated screens in. It really can be as cheap and simple as a cardboard box well sealed with black duct tape. A few blocks in each end to keep the screen off the bottom, the lid closed up with a blanket thrown over it to make sure it is light safe. Ghetto styles!

For more on working with photo emulsion checkout Catspit Productions, LLC.

Place screen face down in box, close box and cover. Leave for 2-5 days.

Build a super low cost exposure unit:

If you want to buy a large vacuum sealing exposure unit it will cost from $999 - $2500.

I couldn't afford that, I still cant. Here is how I expose my screens, its super cheap and easy.

Buy a lamp for an exposure unit for under $30.

Your local hardware supply store sells 500wat halogen work-lights for around $30 (cheaper in USA). They generally have a black housing and clear glass lens at the front with a wire grill covering it. Start by removing the grill and glass from the front. It is a UV filter and when you expose your artwork to your screen you will want maximum UV exposure. If you have a shed, attach a piece of wood 32cm from the trestle table you will be exposing your screen on. I attached the wood with a hinge so I can fold the lamp up and away when not in use. If you don't have access to the bare beams of a shed wall to rig up your exposure unit then use whatever is at hand. I have seen people use a guitar stand to hold the lamp the correct distance from the screen while it exposes (32cm).

Next you need to buy some foam rubber to fit under your screen. The idea here is that the foam is slightly deeper than the screen so that it pushes the screen up from the table when the screen in placed under the lamp face up.

Buy 3m of plain black cloth fabric. Cheap as chips. We will use some of this to cover our foam rubber and the rest will be used to cover the area under our screen when we expose it.

Wrap the foam in black fabric so that it is completely covered. I used liquid nails to attach the fabric to the screen as I cannot sew. As long as the foam is covered in the black plain cloth it will be fine.

Buy a peace of 1 quarter plate glass with 0 UV rating (or the lowest UV rating you can get so that it will let the maximum UV rays though possible). Measure it so that it is big enough to cover your artwork holding it down flat onto the screen. Slightly larger than the inside edge of the screen works fine. Have the edges of the glass sanded so that you can handle it safely without getting cut. Any glass supply store can do this for you.

And that is all the kit you need to get started. You will have some black fabric left over, when you are ready to expose your screen start by covering the table area with the remaining fabric.

How to expose a screen

I recommend doing this procedure at night. Parts of the process need to be done in safe light conditions. For washing out the screen you will need a garden hose with a pressure or jet nozzle, or you may want to use a water blaster or pressure washer if you have one.

Pack the foam in the underside of the screen.

Kill all the lights and turn on your safe light. Now in safe light conditions get out your screen which is already coated with now dried photo emulsion. Put the foam packing in the underside of the screen. Place the screen in the centre of the black cloth, foam down, screen up. Place the artwork on the screen paying attention to which way the art will print, place the glass over the artwork so that it holds it flat against the screen. Turn on the 500wat work-light and expose the screen for 5 minutes.

Turn on the 500wat work-light and expose the screen for 5 minutes.

After five minutes turn off the 500wat work-light. Turn your safe light back on. Take the screen and wash it out, I recommend doing this process at night to eliminate light from affecting your screen result. Start by soaking your whole screen in water on a soft spray, and then turn up the pressure and blast away the unwanted emulsion from your new stencil. It can take a while to get the emulsion to wash out using just a garden hose, be patient or use a high pressure washer to speed things up.

Start by soaking your whole screen in water on a soft spray, and then turn up the pressure and blast away.

Dry your screen off and your screen is done, you are ready to print!

For more useful information on screen printing check out Catspit Productions, LLC.

http://catspitproductionsllc.com/

The final product

Also I recommend reading Threads Not Dead, by Jeff Finley of Gomedia for an in-depth look at apparel industry and how to launch your own clothing line.

http://threadsnotdead.com/

http://arsenal.gomedia.us/

I got into this for the love of art and to earn some side income, chances are it’s the same for you to. Earning some cash along the way is good to. One day I hope to launch my own clothing line and go big time. In the mean time I try to simplify the print process so that it is manageable and affordable while I am still working a day job. I hope you have found some value in these ghetto methods.

Take it easy,

paintedbrain

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